Mine just lifted away without any other connections or tie downs. In short, use a hot iron but only for a very short time. Too much heat can damage the batteries and could even cause them to explode I found the easiest way to solder these tabs was the following: Smear a small amount of flux where the tabs would be contacting each other, place solder between the two tabs I just held the tip of the solder between the tabs , and heat the top tab, compressing everything together. Once all is hot, move the iron away from the connection so you can still apply pressure to the joint while the solder sets.

In one fell swoop the iron melted the solder and made a great connection It took only a few seconds to make each of the connections. Aside from taking the heat much faster, the tabs were long enough that I was able to fold them backwards or sideways and connect to the neighboring battery I had one tab pointing toward the neighboring battery, and the other tab pointing away The process is a bit harder without the pre-installed tabs I used a large heat-shrink tube to re-attach the sensor, but tape might work, and you might not have a sensor.

I was lucky in that the tabs were the same size as the quick disconnects, just not as thick. I pinched the quick disconnect to be sure I had a solid connection. I could have also re-used the heavier tabs from the other battery pack. Did you know it's illegal in many places to throw away your old rechargeable batteries? Recycling is free and easy, and you won't be dumping poison into the environment.

Note that it will take longer to charge if you upgraded to a higher capacity ie: twice the run-time means twice the charge-time. Not bad for less than an hour of effort per battery pack. Did you find this helpful? Please rate my work and leave feedback! Question 3 years ago on Step 3.

I have redone a 18 v nicad and my tester shows i have I have bypassed all connections by the use of jumper wires and still wont power the drill. I know the drill is ok by testing with other battery packs. Have you any idea why this may be happening? Thanks, and i will look forward for your answer. It's very important to note that there's a lot more to swapping cell types than the number of batteries to make up a given voltage.

The electrochemistry of the new cells must be compatible or the charging systems will not work, or even be dangerous. NiCd and NiMh batteries are not, necessarily, interchangeable.

The latter needs a more sophisticated charging system to avoid damage. Whilst many modern chargers cope with both, this can't be guaranteed on dedicated systems. In general, the safest policy to to replace like with like. Never, ever, put Li-ion cells in a device intended for NiMh or NiCd or vice-versa as, at best, the charging system won't work and, at worst, it can be dangerous, even if the sum total of the voltage is comparable.

Also, when replacing Li-ion cells, be very careful to ascertain if the originals have protection circuits or not. Protection circuits must be used on all Li-Ion systems or there is a considerable danger of fire for instance, it's extremely dangerous to completely discharge a Li-Ion battery as, on, recharging it can plate electrodes with metallic lithium.

Protection circuits prevent this and other problems. Li-Ion cells come either with individual protection circuits or none.

The latter are designed to be used in battery assemblies with their own protection circuit and should not be used where this doesn't exist. If, conversely, you put protected cells into a battery assembly with it's own protection circuit it will be safe, but it's quite likely to suffer from other issues, like limited current drawing capability. On a general issue, power available is not defined by voltage alone. Contact us on 03 or email workshop alltool.

Share This. Then maybe you'll have to push the wheel with a stick to get it to start. Eventually it won't start at all. Brushes are really easy to check on a good tool. They're under the little "frankenstein neck bolt" plastic covers. Be careful because sometimes the springs jump and throw stuff away stuff you want.

One of these brushes is obviously messed up, looks likethe spring broke, shorted, and lost its springiness. It came with spare brushes. The more powerful the motor, the more likely a bad switch is.

Circle a. Body grinders pretty often also. Feels similar to bad brushes, but spinning the motor with a stick does nothing.

Messing with the switch makes the motor jump. This switch has a rubber cover. I peeled it for visual inspection and see broken parts inside and charred contacts. A continuity test also reveals a bad switch. I do an online search to find the parts diagram and part number.

I detach and push out the old one. I push the new one into the plastic clips and wire it up just like the old one, and Bob's my new grinder! I mean Uncle! Old tools and drills in particular tend to die from power cords. Here's how I put one on a Bosch jigsaw. Power cords can be tricky to diagnose. Which is a good thing, because you'll get tools for free and they're easy to fix with random power cords.

I used to do a continuity test by shoving needles into the cable and hooking my meter's clips to those. That way I could find out just where the break was without messing up the insulation. If it's just the plug at the end you'll want to replace that. It's also easy to cut the cord and splice a new one on halfway.

Vincent gave me this one with no cord at all so the decision was already made. I had a scavenged power cord, probably from a computer with the computer end cut off.

I wired it in. This tool had a clamp for keeping the cord from pulling out. If there isn't one of those you can improvise with wire ties or tying a knot in the cord. Once I looked inside I saw it was an insulated case with no place for a ground attachment. So I cut the green ground wire off my cord.

Then I broke off the ground pin from the connector so no one would get confused. Older tools sometimes have a metal case that is grounded through the third pin.

The theory there is that if any wires get loose and short inside, they'll short to the case and blow a fuse instead of electrocuting you. Question 1 year ago on Step 4. I have a Ozito mm Grinder. When I turn the switch on it makes a noise like it's jammed.

It wants to go but something is stopping it. Instructional videos. Customer Testimonial Bought a kit a couple of months ago and just finished rebuilding my 8th in the contractor pack.

Customer Testimonial I use my tools everyday and went through Customer Testimonial One of my customers came in bragging about his tools whih were now, according to him running stronger than ever. Customer Testimonial With a proper good working charger and following the recommended methods of charging of these batteries they ha ve lasted four years and still going.

Contact Us. Click To Call. No Heat, No Solder. Rechargeable battery rebuilding end to end. Parallel in Series. Extended Ring Connector. Cell To Cell. Wire tab to Cell. Wire tab to Cell Animation.