Yamaha maxim 650 manual

Any service technician performing preparation work should be familiar with this entire chapter. Proper periodic maintenance is important. Especially important are the maintenance services related to emissions control. These controls not only function to ensure cleaner air but are also vital to proper engine operation and maximum performance.

In the following tables of periodic maintenance, the services related to emissions control are grouped separately. Check condition. Replace after initial 13, km 8, mi or 18 months and thereafter every 12, km 7, mi or 18 months.

Adjust free play. Front: Replace pads if necessary. Rear: Replace shoes if necessary. Check bearing assembly for looseness. Replace generator brushes. Replace at initial 13, km 8, mi and thereafter every 16, km 10, mi. Check bearings assembly for looseness. Moderately repack every 16, km 10, mi. Check specific gravity.

Check breather pipe for proper operation. NOTE: Valve clearance must be measured with the engine and at room temperature. Remove the horn, flasher relay, and spark plug lead wires. Remove the cylinder head cover and left crankcase cover pick-up base cover. Care should be taken to not scratch or damage the gasket sealing surfaces,.

Turn the crankshaft with the nut on the left end of the crankshaft to turn the cams. The proper position of the cam when measuring the valve clearance is with the cam lobe directly opposite the valve lifter. Insert a feeler gauge between the valve lifter and the camshaft base circle. Valve clearance is adjusted by replacing the adjusting pad on the top of the vale lifter. Adjusting pads are available in 25 thicknesses ranging from No. The thickness of each pad is marked on the pad face that contacts the valve lifter not the cam.

Adjustment of the valve clearance is accomplished as follows:. Select proper pad from appropriate chart intake or exhaust chart. Measure valve clearance. If clearance is incorrect, record the measured amount of clearance. This must be measured carefully. There is a slot in the valve lifter.

This slot must be positioned opposite the blade of the tappet adjusting tool before the tools is installed. Turn the cam until the lobe fully depresses the valve lifter and opens the valve. Install the tappet adjusting tool as shown to hold the lifter in this depressed position.

NOTE: The tappet adjusting tool is fastened to the cylinder head securely using an alien screw. Make sure that the tool contacts the lifter only, and not the pad. Carefully rotate the cam so that the pad can be removed. Remove the pad from the lifter. There is a slot in the lifter. Use a small screwdriver or other blade and tweezers or a magnetic rod to remove the pad. Note the number on the pad. Use appropriate chart for exhaust or intake valves, attached to this page, below.

Find number of original installed pad number on chart. Read down on chart. Find measured valve clearance from step 1 on chart.

Read across. At the intersection of installed pad number down and measured clearance across is a new pad number. NOTE: The new pad number is to be used as a guide only. Verify the correctness of this choice in the following step s. Install the new pad in the lifter.

Install the pad with the number down. Turn crankshaft to rotate cam several rotations. This will set the pad in the lifter. Check valve clearance step 3. If clearance is incorrect, repeat preceding steps until proper clearance is obtained. Since all shims come in. If the measured clearance is within 0.

If the measured clearance greater than 0. Clearances that are too small require thinner shims. Clearances that are too large require thicker shims. Example: Required exhaust valve clearance is 0. Measured clearance is 0. Installed shim is Y Required shim is one size thinner: Y The cam chain becomes stretched with use, resulting in improper valve timing and engine noise.

To prevent this, the cam chain tensioner must be adjusted regularly. Slowly rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the "C" mark on the timing plate aligns with the stationary pointer. Loosen the tensioner lock nut and then loosen the stopper bolt. This releases the cam chain tensioner with the proper tension. Stopper bolt torque: 0. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the stationary pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate.

Top Dead Center for No. Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed. The stationary pointer should be within the limits of "PI" on the timing plate. Tap the element lightly to remove most of the dust and dirt; then blow out the remaining dirt with compressed air from the inner surface of the element. If element is damaged, replace it.

Reassemble by reversing the removal procedure. Check whether the element is seated completely against the case. The air filter element should be cleaned at the specified intervals. NOTE: The carburetors are numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4 from the left when viewed from astride the motorcycle. The idle mixture is set at the factory by the use of special equipment. Not attempt should be made by the dealer to change this adjustment.

The seat must be removed and the rear of the tank elevated to gain access to the vacuum connections and throttle adjustment screws. NOTE: The valve clearances must be set properly before synchronizing the carburetors.

Remove the vacuum pipe from the carburetor manifold No. Remove the rubber caps from the No. Start the engine and allow it to warm-up for a few minutes. The warm-up is complete when engine responds normally to the throttle opening.

Each gauge reading will indicate the same if the carburetors are synchronized. The No. First, synchronize carburetor No. Second, in the same way synchronize carburetor No. Third, by adjusting No. NOTE: Carburetors must be synchronized before setting final idle speed.

The idle speed adjustment is made by turning only one throttle stop screw. Set the engine idle speed by turning the throttle stop screw in to increase engine speed or out to decrease engine speed. Oil level measurement a. Place the motorcycle on the center stand. Warm up the engine for several minutes.

NOTE: Be sure the motorcycle is positioned straight up when checking the oil level; a slight tilt toward the side can produce false readings. With the engine stopped, check the oil level through the level window located at the lower part of the right side crank-case cover.

NOTE: Wait a few minutes until the oil level settles before checking. The oil level should be maximum level. If the level is lower, add sufficient oil to raise it to the maximum level. Remove the engine and middle gear drain plugs and drain the oil. Install the new oil filter element, new "O-ring" and filter cover, tighten the oil filter bolt. NOTE: When installing the filter cover, make sure the "O-ring" is positioned properly and insert the locating projection on it into the corresponding guides on the crankcase.

The oil level indicator light should go off after the oil is filled. Place the motorcycle on a level place and place it on the center stand.

The engine should be cool at atmospheric temperature. Remove the oil filler cap and check the oil level whether it is to the hole brim. If it is not up to this level, replenish oil. Remove the final gear oil filler cap and the drain plug, and drain the oil. Oil capacity: 0.

Insufficient compression pressure will result in performance loss and may indicate leaking valves or worn or damaged piston rings. Turn over the engine with the electric starter make sure the battery is fully charged with the throttle wide open until the pressure indicated on the gauge does not increase further.

If the pressure is too low, squirt a few drops of oil into the cylinder being measures. Measure compression again. If there is a higher reading than before without oil , the piston rings may be worn or damaged. If the pressure remains the same after measuring with the oil, either or both the rings and valves may be the cause. Check each cylinder.

Compression pressure should not vary more than specified value from one cylinder to any other cylinder. Loosen either the handle lever adjuster lock nut or the cable length adjuster lock nut. Turn the cable length adjuster either in or out until proper lever free play is achieved.

If the fuel petcock is leaking or excessively contaminated, it should be removed from the fuel tank and inspected. Remove the fuel tank and position it so that fuel will not spill when the petcock is removed.

Remove the petcock and inspect the filter screen. Replace the filter if seriously contaminated. Remove the screws on the front and rear of the petcock and remove the plate, gaskets, lever, and diaphragm.

Inspect all components and replace any that are damaged. If the diaphragm is in any way damaged, or the petcock body gasket surfaces scratched or corroded, the petcock assembly must be replaced. If there is abrasive damage to any component, the fuel tank must be drained and flushed. Front brake lever free play adjustment.

The brake can be adjusted by simply adjusting the free play of the brake lever. The piston in the caliper moves forward as the brake pad wears out, automatically adjusting the clearance between the brake pads and brake disc. Turn the adjuster on the brake rod clockwise or counterclockwise to provide the brake pedal end with a free play of 20 — 30 mm 0. NOTE : Check to see whether or not the brake light operates correctly after adjusting. To check, look at the pad in front.

If any pad is worn to the wear limit, replace the both pads in the caliper. To check, see the wear indicator position while depressing the brake pedal. If the indicator reaches to the wear limit line, replace the shoes. Insufficient brake fluid may allow air to enter the brake system, possibly causing the brake to become ineffective. Check the brake fluid level and replenish when necessary observing these precautions:. Use only the designated quality brake fluid; otherwise, the rubber seals may deteriorate, causing leakage and poor brake performance.

Refill with the same type and brand of brake fluid; mixing fluids may result in a harmful chemical reaction and lead to poor performance. Be careful that water or other contamination does not enter the master cylinder when refilling. Water will significantly lower the boiling point and may result in vapor lock. Brake fluid may erode painted surfaces or plastic parts. Always clean up spilled fluid immediately. This motorcycle is equipped with aluminum wheels designed to be compatible with either tube or tubeless tires.

Tubeless tires are installed as standard equipment. Tire failure and personal injury may results from sudden deflation. Tube-type Wheel — Tube-type tires only Tubeless-type Wheel — Tube-type or Tubeless tires When using tube-type tires, be sure to install the proper tube also. To insure maximum performance, long service, and safe operation, note the following precautions:.

Correct any such hazard before riding. Always inspect the aluminum wheels before a ride. Place the motorcycle on the center stand and check for cracks, bends or warpage of the wheels. Do not attempt even small repairs to the wheel.

If a wheel is deformed or cracked, it must be replaced. Tires and wheels should be balanced whenever either one is changed or replaced. Failure to have a wheel assembly balanced can result in poor performance, adverse handling characteristics, and shortened tire life. After installing a tire, ride conservatively to allow the tire to seat itself on the rim properly.

Failure to allow proper seating may cause tire failure resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider. After repairing or replacing a tire, check to be sure the valve stem lock nut is securely fastened. If not, torque it as specified.

Oil may contaminate front brakes causing loss of braking ability. Have any problem corrected before operating the motorcycle.

Warning: Securely support the motorcycle so there is no danger of it falling over. Raise the motorcycle or remove the front wheel so that there is no weight on the front end of the motorcycle. Remove the handlebar if necessary. The spring seat and fork spring are retained by a stopper ring spring wire circlip.

It is necessary to depress the spring seat and fork spring to remove the stopper ring. Remove the stopper ring by carefully prying out one end with a small screwdriver. Place an open container under each drain hole. Remove the drain screw from each outer tube. If any oil should contact the brake components it must be removed before the motorcycle is operated.

Oil will cause diminished braking capacity and will damage the rubber components of the brake assembly. When most of the oil has drained, slowly raise and lower the outer tubes to pump out the remaining oil.

Inspect the drain screw gasket. Replace if damaged. Reinstall the drain screw. After filling, slowly pump the forks up and down to distribute the oil. Inspect the "O-ring" on the spring seat. Replace "O-ring" if damaged. Reinstall the spring seat, stopper ring and rubber cap. If the spring seat is raised, the spring becomes stiffer and if lowered, it becomes softer.

Raise the front end of the motorcycle so that there is no weight on the front wheel. Grasp the bottom of the forks and gently rock the fork assembly backward and forward, checking for looseness in the steering assembly bearings. If there is looseness in the steering head, loosen the steering stem and front fork pinch bolts and steering fitting bolt. Use a steering nut wrench to loosen top steering fitting nut. The top nut serves as a lock nut.

Tighten the lower steering fitting nut until the steering head is tight, but does not bind when forks are turned. Retighten the top steering fitting nut, steering fitting bolt and steering stem and front fork pinch bolts, in that order. Recheck steering adjustment to make sure there is no binding when the forks are moved from lock to lock.

If necessary, repeat adjustment procedure. An unsafe condition may result so replace such cables as soon as possible. If the inner cables do not operate smoothly, lubricate or replace them. The throttle twist grip assembly should be greased when the cable is lubricated, since the grip must be removed to get at the end of the throttle cable. Two screws clamp the throttle housing to the handlebar. Once these two are removed, the end of the cable can be held high to pour in several drops of lubricant.

With the throttle grip disassembled, coat the metal surface of the grip assembly with a suitable all-purpose grease to cut down friction. The swing arm must pivot freely on its bearings but not have any excess play.

Check and adjust pivot bearings if necessary. The fluid level should be between the upper and lower level marks. Use only distilled water if refilling is necessary. Always make sure the connections are correct when installing the battery. Make sure the breather pipe is properly connected, properly routed, and is not damaged or obstructed.

Failure to properly charge the battery before first use, or low electrolyte level will cause premature failure of the battery. Charging current: 1.

Contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately. Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention. Batteries produce explosive gasive gases. Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. Ventilate when charging or using in closed space. Always shield eyes when working near batteries. Check the electrode condition and wear, insulator color and electrode gap.

When installing the plug, always clean the gasket surface. Wipe off any grime that might be present on the surface of the spark plug, and torque the spark plug properly. Headlight bulb replacement a.

Remove the 2 screws holding the light unit assembly to the headlight body. Remove the top and bottom fitting screws and the horizontal adjusting screw. Remove the light unit assembly from the headlight rim. Remove the sealed beam unit holding screws. Remove the unit retaining ring and the defective unit. Slip a new sealed beam unit into position and secure it with the retaining ring and install it into the headlight rim.

Reinstall the light unit assembly to the headlight body. Adjust the headlight beam. Loosen the adjusting screw under the headlight body. Adjust vertically by moving the headlight body. When proper adjustment is determined, retighten the adjusting screw. The fuse block is located under the seat. If any fuse is blown, turn off the ignition switch and the switch in the circuit in question and install a new fuse of proper amperage.

Then turn on the switches, and see if the electrical device operates. Substitution of a fuse of improper rating can cause extensive electrical system damage and possible fire.

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the engine in order to remove the cylinder head, cylinder, or pistons. This will help prevent any harmful foreign material from getting into the engine oil. Before the engine removal and disassembly, be sure that you have the proper tools and cleaning equipment so that you can perform a clean and efficient job.

During disassembly of the engine, clean and place all of the parts in trays in order of disassembly. This will speed up assembly time and help insure correct reinstall-action of all the engine parts. Place the motorcycle on its center stand. Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Stop the engine and drain the engine and middle gear oil. Seat and Fuel Tank. Remove the seat and the fuel tank holding bolt. Lift the rear end of the duel tank and disconnect the fuel pipes and vacuum pipe from the petcock.

Remove the tool tray. Remove the exhaust pipe holding nuts from the cylinder head. Remove the bolts holding the right and left mufflers to the muffler bracket and remove the left and right mufflers. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery terminal then remove the positive battery plate.

Remove the battery. Remove the board assembly. Remove the clamps holding the carburetors to the air cleaner case and intake manifolds. Remove the crankcase ventilation hose at the air cleaner case. Remove the bolts holding the air cleaner case to the frame left and upper.

NOTE The engine ground wire is secured together with left side holding bolt. Remove the air cleaner joint rubbers and pull the carburetor assembly to the rear. Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor throttle lever and remove the carburetor assembly to the right. Starter relay switch 2. Electric starter cable. Disconnect the pick-up coil and ACG lead wire couplers. Position the disconnect lead wires so that they can be safely removed.

Do not forget to remove this clamp before removing the engine. Pull the rubber boot from the drive shaft coupling to expose the joint bolts. Remove the front engine mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the brackets. NOTE: It is advisable to hold the engine with a suitable garage jack before removing the engine mounting bolts and nuts.

Remove the rear engine mounting bolt and right and left footrests. Remove the brake pedal and right side muffler bracket holding bolt and remove the muffler bracket assembly. Slide the engine forward slightly and remove the engine to the right. NOTE: Position a box or other support to the right side of the motorcycle for the assistance when removing the engine. Use a 19 mm wrench on the timing plate flats to rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the engine is at T.

Caution: Never use an alien wrench to rotate the crankshaft. Always use the 19 mm flats provided on the timing plate to rotate this engine. On this, it is not necessary to break the cam chain. However, it can be broken if so desired. It is easier to disassemble the engine without separating the chain. Remove the cam caps.

Note the location of the cam caps. The caps for the intake cam shaft are identified through I The exhaust cam caps are identified E-1 through E Directional arrows are cast on each cap and point toward the clutch side.

Fasten safety wire to the cam chain to prevent its falling into the crankcase cavity. Slide the cams and sprockets from under the chain and remove the cams and sprockets.

Remove the cylinder head bolts and nuts in the numerical order as shown. Remove the cylinder head. Remove the front cylinder holding nut and remove the cylinder assembly. It may be necessary to tap the cylinder lightly to loosen it from the base gasket.

Remove the valve lifters and pads. Be careful not to scratch the lifter bodies or lifter bores in the cylinder head. Be very careful to identify each lifters position so that it may be returned to its original place.

Mount the valve spring compressor on the head and depress each valve spring. Take out the retainer and valve spring with tweezers. NOTE: Deburr any deformed valve stem end. Use an oil stone to smooth the stem end. This will help prevent damage to the valve guide during valve removal. Use a small box to hold the parts and identify the original position of each lifter and valve.

Be very careful not to mix the location of these components. Place a clean towel or rag into the crank-case to keep circlips and material from falling into the engine. Remove the pick-up coil securing screws and remove the pick-up coil assembly. Remove the starter motor securing bolts and remove the motor assembly.

Install the rotor holding tool special tool on the rotor as shown and remove the rotor holding bolt. Invert the holding tool as shown and insert the rotor puller adapter special tool into the rotor shaft and screw in the rotor puller special tool. Remove the rotor. Release the tension evenly on the 6 mm bolts and remove the clutch pressure plate and clutch springs. Straighten the lock washer tab. Use the clutch boss holder special tool to hold the clutch boss and remove the lock nut and lock washer.

Screw in a suitable length of 6 mm bolt into the one of the threaded holes on the collar and pull out the collar and needle bearing from the primary driven gear. Remove the primary driven gear assembly and oil pump drive sprocket. Remove the strainer cover. Note the wire harness clip position. Remove the oil pump securing bolts and remove the sprocket cover and oil pump assembly.

Remove the middle driven gear housing holding bolts. NOTE: If it is difficult to remove housing assembly, loosen the two crankcase bolts located near the middle driven gear housing.

Remove the upper crankcase bolts, starting the highest numbered bolt. Turn over the engine and remove the lower crankcase bolts,. Separate the lower case from the engine. Use a soft rubber hammer to carefully separate the crankcase. Straighten the lock washer tube and remove the bolt securing the starter idle gear shaft.

Remove the shaft and starter idle gear. Remove the shift fork guide bar and shift forks. The shift forks are identified by numbers cast on their sides. Remove the bolt securing the shift cam locating pin and remove the stopper plate and locating pin.

Remove the driven shaft bearing cover holding screws and remove the bearing cover. Remove the bearing and 5th wheel gear from the driven shaft and pull out the driven shaft assembly. Place head cover on a surface plate. There should be no warpage. Correct by re-surfacing as follows:. Upload or insert images from URL. Share More sharing options Followers 0. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Posted June 7, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options Do you want an ad-free experience?

Join today and help support the Yamaha Owners Club. Posted June 12, Posted June 24, Thanks a bunch! Does anyone if there is another link? None are working. USAF01 , Jan 6, XJH , Jan 6, Same here I can't any of those links to work. XJH , Apr 7, I could use a printable one for a 82 yamaha seca xjrj if someone has got one. I like having a printed version to have while working on it.